Lost in Paradise

The exchange is familiar to traveling families moments after checking in at any hotel or motel.

"Mom! Dad! Can we go to the pool?"

"Sure. But don't forget your sunscreen, flippers and towels."

On Paradise Island, add one more essential: a map. Otherwise you'll think you've encountered the Lost City of Atlantis.

Atlantis, a short ride by taxi or ferry from Nassau, may not be a city. But among aquatic-theme resorts it sets a new bar for size and scope. And for ingenuity.

Kerzner International, which owns about 75 percent of the previously sleepy 800-acre Paradise Island, continues to break new waves.

The resort's waterscape includes more than 20 million gallons of fresh and salt water in lagoons, pools and habitats. Plus, of course, ocean beaches.

New this year is Aquaventure, a 63-acre maze of water slides, high-intensity river rapids, waterfalls and pools with what Atlantis officials say are first-of-their-kind special effects.

Roller-coaster tubing



I got dizzy just watching the fun: Three inner-tube rides start at the top of a dazzling four-level edifice dubbed the Power Tower and rely on "master-blaster technology" to propel guests up and down roller-coaster style. One ride, named The Falls, features a 58-foot drop; another, The Surge, ends with a flash flood in a cavern.

The Current, a man-made river loop, contains nearly 3 million gallons of water, and a wave generator propels tubers along 7-foot elevations and drops.

Other aquatic activities are centered around a life-size replica of a Maya temple.

You must be at least 48 inches tall to sample the rides, but smaller kids needn't despair: Almost every twist of a sidewalk introduces another pool; a 100,000-gallon water play area is dedicated to children younger than age 12; a man-made lagoon is perfect for paddling with parents; and the resort offers all-day kids activity programs. My favorite: "kidisthenics" fitness classes.

Grown-up adventures



Paradise, indeed, you say, for families with children. But no adult escape, right?

Wrong.

Or else why were Janet Jackson, John Travolta, Kanye West, Gloria Estefan, Tyra Banks, Michael Jordan, Magic Johnson, Joss Stone, Nick Lachey, Stevie Wonder, Lindsay Lohan, Rob Lowe and America Ferrara lolling about Atlantis in May?

These celebrities and more were present opening weekend at the Cove, a 600-suite resort within a resort. One of several Atlantis high-rises, it's tucked into a secluded corner of the property and is one of the classiest retreats on any island.

Way upward.

Signature features include a beautiful templelike lobby and a Bobby Flay restaurant. Guests cross a tropical water garden via a glass bridge to access the newly redesigned 30,000-square-foot Mandarin Spa, where the pampering includes a custom manicure bar, pedicure banquettes and a "taking the waters" bathing experience.

At other extremes are an open-air gambling pavilion, a DJ (mood music by day, up-tempo come evening) and a bar where staples include watermelon mojitos.

No one younger than age 18 is allowed at the Cain, but the new wing offers a separate pool and beach club for families.

And guests here have access to the rest of Atlantis. According to one report, actress Bo Derek has sampled every waterslide.

Marine habitats



There is plenty to do beyond the pools, but some of the best attractions stick to the aquatic theme.

The world's largest open-air marine habitat (other than the oceans) has 14 lagoons and houses 50,000 sea creatures. Wander through an underwater viewing tunnel to spy on barracuda, sharks, giant rays and thousands of colorful and tiny tropical fish.

Separate underwater tunnels and passageways showcase The Dig, home to "ruins" from the mythical lost city.

Allow time to visit Dolphin Cay, an 11-acre lagoon with an interactive educational center opened in March. Pause here to learn about the habits of these fascinating ocean residents, then watch as trainers work with dolphins.

Sixteen of the 20 dolphins previously lived at Marine Life in Gulfport, Miss. They survived Hurricane Katrina's devastation in August 2005, but most were swept out to sea.

The primary marine habitat, dolphin habitat and other initiatives have earned Atlantis accreditation by the Association of Zoos and Aquariums.

Clubbing and dining



Guests who pry themselves away from the water find the largest casino in the Bahamas; the new 7,000-square-foot Aura nightclub designed by Jeffrey Beers; Club Rush for teens (leopard print couches, a dance floor, plasma-screen TVs, movies and a game area); a pottery studio; dozens of boutiques; a marina; a tennis center; and the spa. I ran out of time before I could explore everything.

Choosing where to dine may be the biggest challenge. Flay, whose Mesa Grill is his first outside the United States, isn't the only celebrity chef with an Atlantis restaurant. Nobu Matsuhisa, Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Angelo Elia are represented, too.

Bahamian to pizzeria.

About 3,000 accommodations are in high-rises, most notably the Royal Towers, a much-photographed icon with east and west wings. The Bridge Suite, which connects the towers on their 17th floor, includes a 2,500-square-foot entertainment area, an 800-square-foot balcony and views of the entire resort, Nassau and the Atlantic Ocean. All for $25,000 per night.

A tad beyond your budget? Fall promotional specials are as low as $257 per night for standard rooms.

It's hardly surprising that Atlantis continues to expand. Next on the agenda: a 497-unit condo hotel opening Dec. 19.

Get a map.

harry.shattuck@chron.

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